A brilliant vintage of New Zealand’s most impressive syrah. The complexity on parade here is mesmerising: violets, satsuma plum skins, black pepper, blackberries and liquorice straps, even a hint of pitch and coal dust, and in time mixed spice, dried flowers and dark chocolate. A revelation of intensity, thought the density of fruit is never heavy, carried by delightfully energetic acidity and a remarkable tannin structure that is at once gravelly and firm yet fine and mineral, promising a long life. Length and line are incredible and the intricately woven, high tensile textural mouthfeel that undergirds it all is mind-blowing. $105 at Ki WiNZ.