Sourced from Pooley’s oldest of two vineyards on the banks of the Coal River at Campania and confusingly named (Pooley’s estate pinot noir is also largely from its vineyards in the Coal River Valley), though the back label makes it clear that this is single vineyard Campania. Pedantics aside, Pooley has joined the A-league of Tasmanian pinot noir and this wine is responsible. With impressive depth of well-defined black cherries and hints of mulberries and mixed spice, this is a pinot of beautifully integrated finesse yet confident stamina. It’s harmonious, beautifully poised and enticing – and it’s only going to get better. $38 at Canterbury Wines.