All Saints Estate Marsanne

A number of Rutherglen estates are making tricked-up marsanne with plenty of oak and lees work, and in every case I prefer the younger, fresher and cheaper entry version. All Saints cleverly puts this wine over the lees of the big boy and gives it a little time in oak, but the focus remains resolutely on the lifted fragrance of lemon blossom and frangipane. There’s a lemon butter and frangipane exuberance to the palate, too, held neatly in place by refreshingly focused crunchy pear fruit, tight acidity and lingering texture. Buy direct.