I don’t drink a lot of wines from the northern Italian region of Valpolicella, but wines like this could entice me to change that. This is an impressively fragrant, spice-infused, lively and expressive style of tangy, medium-bodied appeal. Breathe deep and you’ll find all manner of allure: fragrant rose hip, berry compote, fresh white pepper, dried fig, mixed spice, even a waft of dried tindling on the hearth. It finishes fine and textural with firm, drying tannins. $27 at Cellar d’Or.
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