Eight years of viticultural and winemaking trials certainly paid off prior to the first Arrivo release in 2004, with a standard of great consistency established since – no small feat for a single, young vineyard high in the Adelaide Hills. “Lunga macerazione” is “long maceration”, 72 days on skins here, which maker Peter Godden suspects makes this the last red to be pressed in each Australian vintage. This lifts it above Arrivo’s short maceration nebbiolo in structural depth, magnificent persistence and all-round completeness. It lacks nothing in varietal integrity, delightfully fragrant in rose hip, exotic spice and musk aromas, vibrant in lively strawberry and black cherry fruit and compelling in its liquorice density. $88 at Emporium (2007).