Ata Rangi Martinborough Célèbre

Syrah, merlot and cabernet in almost equal parts makes for an unusual blend, and particularly for Martinborough, but the interplay of deep concentration and delightful freshness going on here is quite remarkable. Black pepper, mixed spice, plums and blackberries are propelled by a fine, gravelly tannin structure that captures the gravelly Martinborough terraces of its vineyards. It seems pinot does not have a monopoly on articulately expressing Martinborough terroir. $33 at WineStar.