Auburn Bannockburn Riesling

With a production of 870 bottles, this is one of the larger production wines for a brand described more as a passionate hobby than a profitable business by its owners. Their fanaticism is evident in every riesling they make, exemplified in an impeccable balance of acidity and sweetness. Painstaking avoidance of botrytis-affected fruit makes this a clean and primary style, yet lacking nothing in exotic, lush complexity. There’s gardenia perfume, lemonade, grapefruit, star fruit and golden delicious apples, with an undercurrent of fine minerality, a long-lingering persistence and a crisp lemon/lime close. $35 direct.