At an unctuous 322g/L of sweetness, very few dessert wines of such proportions are able to get through fermentation without developing the telltale off-characters of stressed out yeast. BDG is amazingly clean and pure in spite of its figures, which must be credited to proprietor Dave Paterson’s experience with making ice wine in Canada’s Okanagan Valley. It’s layered with beautifully succulent apricots, juicy peaches, ginger nut biscuits, brioche and baked apples, with an energetic core of pure lime zest and lime cordial. It maintains great intensity and effortless balance at every moment. Just 156 half bottles of this brilliant, alluring and enticingly focused sweet wine were made. $45 direct.