In Spain, ‘Crianza’ is a wine that has spent a year in oak, half that of ‘Reserva’ – and not infrequently all the better for it. Baigorri was founded by Jesus (Baigorri) himself, and at six years of age his blend of tempranillo and friends displays a fine-grained texture unusual in Spain, reflecting a focus on fruit integrity and classy new oak. It’s layered with plump, ripe berry fruit, plum pudding, Christmas spice, cherry liqueur and dark chocolate, drawing into a long finish of firm tannins. $32 at Nicks.
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