I’ve never understood Geelong riesling. Or, perhaps I should say I’ve never understood it made in the traditional Australian way. Along comes an attempt made like a chardonnay, from old vines in a cold vintage, fermented by wild yeast on full solids, partly in old barrels, kept on lees for six months and bottled with no attempt to remove phenolics – and suddenly the heavens open and the angels sing! After 35 years riesling has stepped up to the true benchmark of the legendary name of Bannockburn. Michael Glover, take a bow!
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