The sheer vibrancy and purity of fruit is nothing short of a marvel from these grand, dry grown 1867 vines planted by Henry Best himself. The 2012 is just the 13th release, precociously backward on release, promising a monumental future, yet so irresistible now that it will take superhuman restraint to let it get there. Even in my strictly disciplined tasting routine I couldn’t spit it. Such is its vibrancy of purple hue it’s almost luminescent, radiating brilliant shafts of violets, black plums, black cherries and raspberries in all directions. Wrapped into its folds, layers of star anise, liquorice and high cocoa dark chocolate, lingering relentlessly amidst superfine tannins of pristine grace yet confident structure. One of the top half dozen Australian wines of the past year. 2800 bottles. Make sure you get one of them. $145 at Museum Wine Shop.