Best’s Thomson Family Shiraz

The 143 year old vines of the Concongella vineyard rank among Victoria’s most famous, and produced just 4200 bottles in 2010, but this is not the reason for their inclusion in this list. The layers of exotic complexity on display here are mesmerising, and the longer it swirls around the glass the more it reveals. Loaded with exotic spice, dried flowers, white pepper, dried herbs, sarsaparilla, fresh liquorice, coffee, high cocoa dark chocolate, even fennel, curry and rain on a dusty outback road. This is a decidedly savoury style of highly polished finesse, with a finely composed backbone of firm tannins. It will live for a generation. $125 at Kemeny’s and No Frills Wine.

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