Billecart-Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru

As in every one of its cuvées, Billecart creates precision through cold settling prior to fermentation, building texture and volume later by a little bâtonnage (lees stirring) in tank. Based on the 2009 vintage and a 50% share of Avize fruit, this is a honed and focused style of impeccable focus, energy and tension. It presents excellent concentration of lemon, grapefruit, white peach and subtle grilled bread reduction, fizzing with pronounced grand cru salt chalk mineral texture. $110 at Wine Emporium and Nick’s.