Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve

When Antoine-Roland Billecart presented his full range across Australia last week, he had a new disgorgement of Brut Réserve in tow, based on the 2009 vintage. Unfortunately, the bottle contains no clue to denote the new shipment, which is a particularly pristine and elegant Billecart. With a strong pinot meunier lead, red berry fruits are more prominent than ever, but the omnipresent underriding chalky mineral mouthfeel of Billecart remains the defining feature. $57 at Armadale Cellars.