Bress Gold Chook Heathcote Shiraz

With a cool lead-up to vintage, Adam Marks’ Heathcote shiraz gained flavour ripeness before stalk ripeness, so for the first time in ten years there are no stalks in the ferment. It seems the wine has its own memory, and carries a complex stalky note anyway. There’s quite a spectacle on show here: anise, sarsaparilla, dark berry fruits, rose hip, chocolate, pipesmoke and charcuterie. It’s beautifully textured and finely structured at every moment, lingering long and complex. $39 at Cracka.