There’s an elegant, fragrant beauty to great Yarra Valley cabernet, epitomised in icons like Mount Mary. From the next vineyard along, a similar demeanour is articulated here. Pretty violet fragrance is underscored by deep blackcurrant and blackberry fruit, accented with anise and mixed spice. The palate is beautifully focused and densely packed, with very fine, tightly honed fruit tannins drawing out with excellent persistence. Adam Marks says it should be his (more expensive) Gold Chook tier, but he made too much. An impressive cabernet, with a long future before it. $25 direct.