The refinement of Margaret River chardonnay is a joy to behold; its finest expressions now relying on texture and restraint more than impact and concentration. To achieve this in a warmer vintage like 2011 is a credible feat indeed. Brookland has crafted a layered and complex chardonnay that flows seamlessly from struck flint and funky lees complexity to a taut, honed finish of wonderfully defined grapefruit and lemon crunch. At every moment it’s lifted by subtle nuances of grapefruit blossom that flow seamlessly through a long, linear finish of beautifully gauged texture and fine-boned grace. A chardonnay of outstanding persistence and poise.$30 at Cracka.