There is an understated effortlessness about this wine that will, time permitting, define it among the greatest Cape Mentelles of all. Every molecule of complexity and detail have been intricately assembled, with each nuance of young Margaret River cabernet character methodically ticked off, yet it upholds an astonishing approachability and an alcohol reading of just 13.5%. Fine, textural, gravelly tannins are impeccably poised and the length is mind-blowing. This is one of the top six Australian wines I have tasted in the past year – and it’s the cheapest. In an age of mesospheric Bordeaux pricing, with a production of just 774 cases, it’s an absolute bargain, especially at $67 at The Glass and Winestyle.