In the Rutherglen hierarchy, the biggest leap in colour, viscosity and power comes in ascending from Classic to Grand, and Morris Tokay exemplifies this by almost doubling the average age to fifteen years. The complexity that has built over this time is beguiling, layered with great intensity of fig paste, fruitcake, marmalade, dark chocolate and […]

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Big and black, just like its label, this is a Central pinot of full, vibrant purple hue and well-composed balance, offering unusual value for money for this part of the world. Its bouquet is adorned with expressive and intense aromas of dried flowers, spice, violets and black fruits of all kinds. The palate continues the […]

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Another star in the lineage of Xanadu, this is a cabernet sauvignon intricately tweaked with each of the other four Bordeaux varieties in tiny quantities of never more than 5%. It’s an impressive accord, building an intense blackberry, blackcurrant and black jube profile that contrasts with crunchy redcurrants and dark chocolate French oak. Finely textured […]

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The fleshy personality of ten-year-old vines rooted in clay soils makes for an endearing expression in the second label pinot of one of Martinborough’s top players. It’s persistent and fruit-focused, with black fruit expression and high cocoa dark chocolate notes. Lovely fine tannins and excellent poise carry through a long and fruit-accented finish. $28 at […]

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A sophisticated and skilfully crafted Tumbarumba chardonnay that juxtaposes the cool, crunchy lemon, apple and white peach of the region with well-gauged complexity of struck flint and gunsmoke. It carries a cool, fine undercurrent of mineral structure, well balanced acidity, supportive oak and excellent persistence. $24 at Dan’s.

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A tiny production riesling of just 260 cases, retaining wonderfully youthful lime zest, kaffir lime spice and lime drop intensity more than a year after harvest. Fine, mineral mouthfeel is accented by wild fermentation and two months on yeast lees. A refined style of taut Eden Valley acidity, good fruit concentration and excellent persistence, punctuated […]

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From the coldest site on this legendary estate, wild yeast fermented in a giant 4,400L French oak ‘foudre,’ this is a seriously intellectual chardonnay at a cheerful price. A leesy, reductive bouquet of struck flint underscores the tension of subtle pear and grapefruit, while the palate is driven by savoury, lees-accented complexity and layered texture, […]

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Fresh and well-balanced, with a good core of bright redcurrant and red cherry fruits and supple tannins softened by 18 months in French oak barrels. It could use a few more years in bottle to build depth and complexity. Good value at $18 direct.

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I cannot think of a better tawny at this price! Morris’ tawnies are privileged to considerable maturity at every level, and even this entry rendition is an impressive average of nine years of age. Fresh fruit lift is beautifully balanced with rancio, nutty complexity and notes of fig paste, completed with seamlessly integrated spirit and […]

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Early harvest and stainless steel tank fermentation captures the lively, crunchy pear and guava freshness of verdelho. A gentle undercurrent of textural mouthfeel makes for an ideal partner with sushi and sashimi. $18 direct.

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