The bargain highlight of my recent visit to Hilltops, two hours north of Canberra. There is an alluring, refreshing elegance to this vibrant shiraz, built around black plum skin and dark cherry fruit laced with exotic savoury spice and pepper. It captures the cool restraint of a wet season high in the Hilltops in its […]

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An understated rosé of pretty pale salmon-copper hue, alluring restraint, savoury character and lingering persistence. Notes of tomato and watermelon are underlined by finely textured mouth feel and lively high altitude acidity. A well-crafted and food-friendly style. $20 at Oak Barrel and Wine Odyssey.

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I was privileged to judge the wine of the year in Hilltops this week and I surprised even myself by choosing not a shiraz but a cabernet – and a brand new wine not yet released, for that matter. I had no idea of the price at the time, and expected it to be at […]

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Another bargain from Moppity, the highest vineyard in Hilltops, boasting vines over 40 years of age. The beautifully cool 2012 vintage has nurtured restrained shiraz with alluring nuances of black pepper, black plum skin and liquorice, underscored by excellent firm, fine tannins and taut, lively acidity. A wine of outstanding persistence and impressive mouth feel. […]

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From some of the Hilltops’ oldest vines, this is a shiraz of beautifully textured mouth feel of finely structured tannins, laced with subtle reductive complexity. It’s savoury, understated and immensely spicy, alive with fragrant white pepper, impressive persistence and lingering cool climate restraint. $21 at Cloudwine

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Despite the difficulties of the wet 2012 season in Hilltops, this is one of my favourite vintages of Grove Estate, a wine of impressive persistence, fine-boned structure and exotic allure. An intricately peppery and spicy style of lifted violet perfume and a subtle hint of game, capturing the lively cool climate of the season and […]

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Exactingly crafted and beautifully executed, this is a stunning vintage for Clonakilla riesling. Warm, sun-bathed days and cool nights have ripened breathtakingly pristine lemon zest, granny smith apple and lime blossom purity. Decomposed granite soils build chalky, talcy mineral structure. A wonderfully enduring riesling of lemon blossom, crunchy fennel and lime zest persistence. $25 at […]

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2012 is one of the great blends of Felton Road’s three chardonnay vineyards, with a richness of fruit character typical of the vintage, yet with a focused precision and intricately defined structure, thanks to rapid picking. Struck flint and gunsmoke complexity hovers over pristine white peach and lemon purity, with a core of intense stone […]

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There is a restrained elegance to Felton Road’s 2012s, an understated intensity of fragrance and spice framed in well-defined structure, making this one of the great vintages for the finest estate in New Zealand. The balanced ripeness and depth of flavour of the year allows the fruit to dissolve 28% inclusion of stems in the […]

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There’s density and concentration of black plum and liquorice fruit in Moppity’s top shiraz, contrasting with the spicy restraint and low alcohol poise of the highest vineyard in Hilltops. Finely textured tannins are supported by oak structure that calls for time to integrate. $50 at Oak Barrel.

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