Zinfandel must rank among the most challenging varieties of all to tame to any semblance of elegance, too often overstepping the mark into hedonistic raptures of exotic complexity. To tone it to such levels of restraint and sophistication as Rob Mann has achieved in 2012 is nothing short of astonishing. In my memory, unprecedented in […]

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Tim Adam’s 21st Aberfeldy is the best wine this talented man has ever made. More than this, it is one of the finest red wines to bear the great name of the Clare Valley in the modern era. This is a stonking Aberfeldy that captures the depth and magnificence of an epic season, layered with […]

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Once in a very, very long while a wine bursts into the world and smashes the familiar paradigms of classic blends and traditional practices with the kind of distinction that sets it among the classics. Thousand Candles Yarra Valley 2013 leaves me grappling for a paradigm, and I land in uncharted territory. It’s at once […]

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