“Chardonnay is close to my heart,” waxes Ruinart Chef de Caves Frédéric Panaïotis. It’s close to mine, too, when it’s as elegant and refined as it is in his B de B. This is the consummate autumn aperitif; a complete champagne, singing with pure lemon juice and high notes of cinnamon and wild honey.

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Chasing a plush, juicy cabernet to crack with Sunday afternoon sangers? Well, forget this. The engineering is so impeccable it would put an Airbus to shame (hang on, make that a Boeing), and its serviceable life is longer, too! Stonking Margaret River cab from a legendary vintage. $30 at WineStar.

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The Yarra Valley is famous for cabernet, although not from its cooler upper parts. Blessed with a magic season, this historic vineyard obliterates the mould! Such lift of violets, purity of blackcurrant fruit and drive of tannin structure, these parts have rarely seen. Miniscule production, get in line.

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It’s frankly hilarious that you can pick up a wine for $17 at Kemeny’s and Dan Murphy’s that will shine for twenty years! I’d never believe it if I hadn’t been dazzled by a line of ‘80s and ‘90s Church Blocks recently. There must be some divine intervention going on here and 09 has sure […]

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Look out Central Otago and Martinborough, Canterbury pinot noir has hit the big time! With an ethereal air of exotic spice and a brooding structure, Bell Hill is the epitome of Kiwi cult sensations. If you’ve got cash to splash and you want all the bells and whistles, it’s time you ascended The Hill.

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Back up the truck, JC pink fizz is my bubbles of choice when the room is heaving and the bride’s father is looking nervous about the bill! I’ve converted many a red-blooded bloke with this stuff because it’s made like proper sparkling and it’s NOT SWEET! $8.50 at Dan’s, sometimes $7.80 at 1st Choice.

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These mild autumn evenings call for zesty whites with a touch of the mellowed maturity of bottle age. Belford arrives perfectly pre-aged to that magic Hunter semillon moment when toasty complexity meets zesty preserved lemon, dissolving in a shower of glittering minerality. $24 at WineStar.

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After instructing you to Buy George Cabernet Tempranillo last week, I did a double-take when his Foxy shiraz partner showed its tail at 1st Choice under $14. It should be illegal to snare such sensitively crafted Barossa glory at these miserly prices! A few secret ingredients inject spicy lift and perfume.

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Peter and Hannah Logan are the slickest operation in Mudgee and they sure know how to turn on a party! Their bargain SSB will kick-start all kinds of shenanigans with its spicy pear and apple fruit, crunchy lime palate and lingering guava finish. $10 at Cracka Wines.

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Sauternes is the cradle of France’s finest sweeties and its enchanting 07s are just starting to land. It hurts to shell out more than $100 for a half bot of dessert wine, but Rieussec’s second label is one of the best value alternatives. Classic lighter style, layered with honey and succulent stone fruits.

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