Chapel Hill Abacus McLaren Vale Shiraz

An exclusive for Coles stores, Abacus is a logical step up from Parson’s nose. Your extra few dollars buys you deeper, more intricately coiled black plum and blackberry fruit, well framed in understated dark chocolate French oak. A vibrant, subtle black pepper and spice undercurrent and a fresh rhubarb tang proclaim the cool 2011 season, though it lacks nothing in fruit concentration and depth. Fine, softly grippy tannins make Abacus a happy choice to unscrew tonight, and it will improve for a few years, too. $19 at First Choice.