Pinot noir has found a new lease on life at Cloudy Bay. Maker Nick Lane reckons not one of the 2002 pinot batches he tasted on his second day here would make it into the blend today. It’s a new world now, with new vineyards, new clones, older vines, a little whole bunch (less than 15%) and winemaking that dares to let the juice sit on its skins to pick up more tannin, colour and flavour. In an impressive season like 2010, the result is a pinot noir of delicacy and elegance yet confidence and focus. Layers of mixed spice meet succulent black cherries and berry compote on the bouquet, while delightful red cherries are the theme of the palate. Finely structured, understated, silky tannins and great persistence promise cellaring potential.  $40 at Canterbury, WineStar, The Glass and Wine Box Warehouse.