Coldstream Hills Yarra Valley Chardonnay

The tension and focus of the cool 2011 season are on show here in exact, honed white fruits and well-textured grapefruit-pith-like structure. Layers of classy, spicy cashew nut French oak overlay a backdrop of pristine white peach and grapefruit. It lingers long and true, with fruit and oak propelling each other forward, neither dominating. $22 at Dan’s and Wood Street Wines.