The marvels of superfine graphite structure, euphoric fragrance and enduring longevity achieved in the Cullen vineyard at just 12.5% alcohol are without precedent anywhere in the country. The sheer tannin shape of this wine is mesmerising, with enduring grip that will sustain it for at least three decades, yet the epitome of finesse and unashamedly medium-bodied. The clarity of violet perfume and depth of pristine red- and blackcurrants is faultless, perfectly framed in tobacco leaf, cedar, coffee bean and high cocoa dark chocolate. For the record, 80% cabernet sauvignon, 12% merlot, 4% malbec, 3% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot – but I challenge you to spot any seam in its composition. One of the greatest and longest-lived Diana Madelines. $95 at Boccaccio Cellars, Jim’s Cellars and Cloudwine.