Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay

The fruit energy on parade here is captivating. This is a KJ of intricate focus and ravishing stone fruit presence, with a high-tensile core of coiled-spring fruit acidity that will unravel over the coming decade. It’s at once elegant, pure and graceful, yet at the same time slightly richer than 2009, with tremendous presence of grapefruit, white peach and vanilla and phenomenal vibrancy of lemon juice and grapefruit zest. $95 at Dan’s.