Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay

Never have I tasted Cullen Chardonnay fruit as energetic, lively, vibrant and persistent as this. KJ is effortlessly calm, consummately complete and yet deceptively long-lived. Gorgeously restrained perfume permeates every crevice, while deep-set minerality and texture are at once arresting and caressing. This is the finest Australian chardonnay of the year to date. Big call, but no other has shown such profound, coiled-up restraint juxtaposing latent power and complexity. Grand Cru Burgundy, look out. $91 at Dan Murphy’s.