De Bortoli Estate Grown Yarra Valley Chardonnay

On one side, the mafia declare the modern trend in Yarra Valley chardonnay to be too lean and mean. On the other, De Bortoli winemaker Steve Webber celebrates the cool, classic 2011 vintage as defining the best chardonnays De Bortoli has ever made. Who to believe? The wine, of course. True to the season, this is a zesty, cool and restrained aperitif style of refreshing purity. A taut and honed palate rides on a cool season backbone of tense acidity. Grapefruit zest, fresh lemons, lemon blossom perfume and a hint of charcuterie lees complexity carry with outstanding persistence. Chablis, eat you heart out. $24 at Boccaccio and 1st Choice.