De Bortoli Estate Grown Yarra Valley Chardonnay

This label has been criticised for early picking gone too far. We praise white Burgundy and Chablis when it’s tightly wound, honed, mineral, restrained and age-worthy. Then a local chardonnay talent puts forward their most taut, high-strung and long-lived vintage ever and it gets written off. C’mon Aussie! $24 at Dan’s, $25 at Vintage Cellars.