De Bortoli Yarra Valley Estate Grown Sauvignon

2011 was a season that played into the hands of aromatic varieties in the Yarra, drawing a Sancerre-like restraint from De Bortoli’s sauvignon, and charging it with electric vibrancy and great longevity. Grapefruit and lime are the themes here, underlined by struck flint and nutty lees complexity, thanks to wild fermentation, plenty of lees work and full malolactic fermentation in old oak casks. The result is deeply textural, finely mineral and magnificently persistent. $22 at Cracka, Wine Selectors and direct.