From 12 vintages all the way back to 1995, all oak fermented, it might appear that this recipe could play havoc with purity and focus. To the contrary, and to the credit of the genius of Erick de Sousa and the all-conquering presence of Avize chalk, this is a wine of remarkable purity. Its minerality is an epiphany, mouth-filling and all-encompassing; one of the most profoundly deep-set, salty chalk signatures in all of Champagne. A magnificent celebration of controlled power, with pristine white fruits, lemon, grapefruit zest and fennel, and the depth, breadth and height of stone fruits of all kinds. Eighteen years of maturity brings a walk through an autumnal landscape, a layered, spicy complexity of golden leaves, nutmeg, cloves, anise, figs, cherry kernel and roast chestnuts, bringing a depth and generosity to the finish unusual for blanc de blancs. In the midst of such complexity, it maintains utter control and poise. $130 at WineStar.