Deviation Road Adelaide Hills Pinot Gris

Pinot gris is the fastest growing white wine category right now, which means that too many are thrown together from young vines on less than ideal sites. Deviation Road soars high above the masses thanks not only to its pristine, high altitude, 1983 planted site but, importantly, to a gentle and skilful approach in the winery. In the restrained 2011 vintage, a respect for elegance has been maintained, and a finely textural mouthfeel achieved thanks to partial barrel fermentation. $20 at East End Cellars and Hunt For Wine.