Such elegance and purity is rarely found in Australian sparkling wine, and after experiencing this wine it’s no surprise to learn that its maker Kate Laurie learnt her skill in the heart of Champagne. Her expertise is on display in this refreshing aperitif style. It’s spent 18 months on lees, and it’s only lacking the complexity and persistence that come with longer lees ageing – but Champagne wasn’t built in a day. There’s no lack of refined appeal here, in a crisp and primary style that showcases crunchy apple and strawberry hull flavours, finishing delightfully dry and fruit-focused, with fine, mineral texture. $28.50 at World Wine.