Devil’s Lair occupies a privileged position at the better value end of Margaret River’s top tier, and the 2010 release is particularly refined – not by showy extroversion, bold structure or breathtaking longevity but rather by an internal harmony, an elegant calm and an understated assuredness that make it irresistible. The bouquet, captures the definition of red- and blackcurrants, tobacco and cedar, with a lifted rose hip note and hints of tomato leaf. The palate is pristine, perfectly ripe and balanced, with exacting fruit definition underscored by quintessential gravelly, graphite-like Margaret River tannins and well-controlled oak that weaves seamlessly into the fruit. A wine of medium-bodied refinement and perfumed fruit, maintaining consummate confidence and long-lingering persistence. $38 at MyCellars.