A stunning Dom Pérignon has recently been unleashed to wow the world. After the powerful 2002 and the abrasive 2003, 2004 is a backward and honed Dom Pérignon of understated intensity, charged with dramatic tension of high-voltage electricity. At almost a decade of age, it seems to transcend the very passage of time itself, projecting an aura of impossibly youthful grapefruit and immaculately defined lemongrass, with a lightning bolt of pure lemon shattering its brittle core of pristine mineral chalk. A champagne of supreme purity and tightly coiled focus, unravelling to reveal fresh pear and anise. One of the truly great and longlived Doms of the modern era. $180 at Chambers.