Dom Pérignon Oenothéque
Deceptively sedate, elegant, fine, ethereal and mineral. When prodded with main course concentration, it arises to meet it like a gentle and powerful winged creature, revealing flashes of summer fruits and roast nuts under its wings. In one grand swoop it answers the debate of whether the searing backbone and monumental power of 1996 will ever find its mojo. It finishes calm, settled, confident, mesmerising.
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