Merlot performed well in the cool, wet 2011 season, so Wayne Dutschke took the opportunity to realise a long-term dream to make a straight merlot from the 1980 vines of St Jakobi vineyard. A good decision, too, yielding a surprisingly accurate straight merlot for the Barossa floor. Its balance reflects the restraint of 2011 and captures merlot’s varietal character in its lifted violet and succulent mulberry and blackcurrant fruit profile, hints of tobacco, crunchy acid structure and fine tannins. A touch of warmth on the finish is an apt reminder that the Barossa is a warm region, even in a season as cool as this. $25 direct.