Elderton Command Single Vineyard Barossa Shiraz

In the quarter-century over which these 1894 planted vines have been bottled as Command, 2010 will go down among the greats. True to its name, this vintage makes for a commanding Barossa Shiraz of impenetrable layers of red and black fruits, spice, dark chocolate and red liquorice becoming faintly gamey. It upholds exacting balance for its considerable proportions, with a bright fruit edge holding prominence from start to very long finish, controlled by fine, supple, well contained tannins. $78 at WineStar.