Unusually, 2004 was not a large vintage for Rodez, even smaller than 2002. The precision that he has extracted from this vintage is magnificent, and this is the season that he goes back to as confirmation of his biodynamic techniques. And so it is: the minerality is an epiphany, its shards of pure chalk boring deep into the core of the wine, then frothing up like an ocean swell in a blowhole. There’s freshness here, even delicacy for Ambonnay, with an air of lemon and strawberries, harmonising with great intensity and body of plum, cherry liqueur, even plum pudding and espresso, slowly beginning to build nuances of toast and brioche. Skilfully handled barrel work enhances texture, minerality and toastiness without beginning to interrupt freshness, purity and thundering persistence.$71 at French Wine Centre.