Flametree Chardonnay

Cliff Royle defines intuitive winemaking, tweaking and changing the finer details of production based on the expression of the vintage and its fruit. In the warm 2011 season, he picked early and avoided lees stirring and malolactic fermentation to accentuate the tighter white and pink grapefruit of the Wallcliffe area and the dried peach and fig of Wilyabrup. The result reflects the vintage in its fruit concentration, but its careful handling has made for a persistent finish of honed acidity and well-textured structure. $19 at Prince and Dan’s.