It’s difficult to believe that this wine even exists. Winemaker Alain Rousseau reckons he’s only made two good botrytis wines in Tassie, one at Moorilla and now this. Just 1000 bottles for cellar door, he suggests it took four or five kilograms of grapes to make each half bottle. In this context, the price looks vaguely reasonable, but it’s the sheer, pristine purity of the wine that really defines its pedigree. This is stunning and impeccably crafted botrytis of brilliantly pale, green-tinted hue, with pure notes of kaffir lime, pepper and gorgeous lemon freshness. The palate rides on rails of honed cool vintage acidity, the sweetness perfectly balanced, a full 200g/L on paper but it tastes nothing like that sweet. Remarkable persistence and undeviating line, with an underriding mineral texture. Pure and focused now, it will blossom magnificently in the coming decades.