Georges Laval Cumières Premier Cru Brut

The magnificent generosity of fully mature fruit from the village of Cumières is something to behold in the bright and energetic 2008 season, drawing out the inimitable sea-salt mineral personality of the village with breathtaking clarity. Rich layers of brioche, honey, pear and nutmeg of barrel fermentation and maturation open into a wonderland abounding in red cherry and white peach fruit. It pulls into a beautifully controlled and focused finish of remarkable persistence and medium-term longevity, a rousing celebration of the dazzling minerality of Cumières. $150 at Eurocentric.