I cannot recall any set of Australian aromatic wines as consistently breathtaking as Jeffrey Grosset’s 2012 releases. His off-dry riesling, named Alea for the first time, showcases fruit captured at the most exacting point in its ripeness to deliver the glories of pristine kaffir lime, crunchy granny smith apple and pure lemon zest. Such is the assuredness of structure and acidity here that sugar becomes a minor player in the ultimate impression, carrying succulence and balance rather than any overt sense of sweetness, persevering long into the finish, with slate-like structure and enduring fruit presence.