The big question that divides the great rieslings from the also-rans of the Clare and Eden Valleys in 2013 is that of the skill of their makers in handling this warm and dry season, expressed most evidently in phenolic structure. The outcome is a greater disparity of house style and quality than the even 2012 season. It is here that Jeffrey Grosset has again wielded his Jedi-like talent, and Polish Hill is again the wine of the vintage. The secret is his masterful handling of phenolics, bringing structure without grip or bitterness. Otherwise, this is everything that we have come to love about Polish Hill. The bouquet is sublime in its delicacy of lemon blossom and talc, supported by desperately pure lime zest and granny smith apple. The palate is breathtaking, intense in its lemon and lime cut, with a core of icy granny smith apple and an electric charge of fine-boned acidity. Persistence is profound and slaty mineral structure is accentuated. 2012 it is not, but there’s no question 2013 will go down among the greats. $45 at WineStar.