Eileen is looking more graceful than ever in 2010, a vintage that will go down among the greats. Layered with complexity of gunflint, subtle charcuterie and lees funk yet all the while upholding magnificent poise of primary fruit, grapefruit and lemon with a hint of fig. Oak is well gauged, present yet consummately supportive, and will benefit from time to mesh into the structure of the wine. The real highlight here is the acidity, flowing seamlessly and long yet with strict definition and taut structure, underlining a magnificently persistent finish. $59 at MyCellars and Dan’s.