From five rows singled out of Hoddles Creek’s original vineyard next to the winery, this is an outstanding and expressive release. There’s real depth of character and structure on display here, showcasing the black cherry and black plum fruit depth of small berries from low-yielding vines. It’s elegant, restrained and focused, while exhibiting impressive fruit depth and persistence, impeccably supported by firm, finely structured tannins and lively, Upper Yarra acidity. Line and length are exceptional. Best news of all, everything is great value at Hoddles Creek, and its top wine is priced like everyone else’s estate wines. $40 at United Cellars.