Hoddles Creek Wickhams Road Gippsland Chardonnay

There’s quite some sophistication on show here. The primary focus is on grapefruit, white peach and fig fruit of purity drive and definition, but there’s a lot more going on here than you’d expect for $17. A fine, textural mouth feel reflects intricately managed wild fermentation on full solids and eight months in 15% new oak, reinforcing subtle struck match complexity. It finishes long, linear and even, driven by lively acid energy. $16 direct and at My Cellars and Cloudwine.