Such is the intricate craftsmanship on display here that, even at this infant age, it’s impossible to distinguish where the fruit stops and the oak starts. Two-thirds sauvignon and one-third semillon from the southern and central parts of Margaret River was part-fermented in new and old oak, serving to propel the fruit upward, rather than damp it down with heavy wood, enlivening a delightfully spicy bouquet of zesty grapefruit, crunchy golden delicious apples and exotic frangipane florals. The palate carries the same themes, with fragrant lift, zesty crunch and delightfully poised, lingering grapefruit acidity. A softly textural backbone defines a beautifully poised and energetic SBS of delightful acid line. It’s ready to go right now, and has the potential to live for the medium-term. $23 at Wood Street Wines and Nicks.