Jacquesson Cuvée No 736 Extra Brut

The planets aligned in 2008, when the vintage of the decade coincided with Jacquesson’s tearing up of every contract for fruit that wasn’t up to scratch. It goes without saying that this is the finest 700 series release from Jacquesson yet, but it’s more than that: its breathtaking elegance and electric brilliance position it firmly among Champagne’s very finest entry NVs this year. The coiled expression of 2008 is encapsulated in concentrated focus of lemon blossom, lemon zest, granny smith apple and white peach. A beautifully linear and chiselled champagne of brilliant mineral presence and fresh lemon acidity, finishing very long, never hard, with structure seamlessly entwined with lingering citrus and stone fruits. Its sheer endurance will make for an exceedingly long life. $75 at Cellar Vie.